Classification
Fabric pots are often described as being particularly beginner-friendly.
This is partly true – they forgive classic overwatering mistakes better than plastic.
However, in Living Soil, a different picture emerges.
Here, it's not about avoiding waterlogging, but about maintaining a consistently active soil system. And that's precisely what makes fabric pots more challenging than many people think.
The challenge isn't in the pot itself, but in the water distribution throughout the substrate.
How fabric pots change things in Living Soil
Fabric pots actively intervene in two crucial areas:
1. Oxygen supply
- Air enters the root zone through the sides
- Roots branch more (air-pruning)
- Microbes work more efficiently with good aeration
2. Water behavior
- Moisture is released faster
- Edges dry out significantly faster
- Water distributes less "sluggishly" than in plastic
In practice, this means:
The system reacts faster – both up and down.
The crucial point: Even moisture
In Living Soil, it's not about how much water is in the pot, but how it's distributed.
Desired state:
- slightly moist and active at the top
- evenly moistened throughout the middle
- not continuously wet at the bottom
- oxygen available everywhere
As soon as this balance shifts, problems arise – often without immediately visible symptoms.
Bottom watering in fabric pots
Watering from below works technically. Water is drawn upwards by capillary action.
In practice, everything depends on the substrate and the application.
What can work well:
- even moistening in the lower area
- promotes deep root formation
- no direct "tearing open" of the surface
What often happens:
- lower zone remains too wet for too long
- upper zone dries out
- water does not rise evenly
- different moisture zones develop
Especially with fabric pots, this effect is amplified because the sides additionally lose moisture.
The result is often:
too wet at the bottom
too dry at the top
And this is precisely problematic in Living Soil.
Why pure bottom watering is not enough
Living Soil thrives strongly in the upper layers:
- most microbial activity takes place there
- organic materials are broken down there
- plant-available nutrients are created there
If this area dries out, the system loses functionality.
Therefore:
Bottom watering alone cannot stably supply the upper soil area.
Practical solution: Combination of top and bottom watering
The most stable method is a combination of both approaches.
Basic structure:
- Main watering from above
- Supplementary impulses from below
- Keep the surface actively moist
Specifically implemented:
1. Water from above
- ensures even distribution
- activates the upper microbe zone
- provides direct feedback (absorption behavior)
2. Use bottom watering selectively
- to rehydrate the lower area
- not continuously, but selectively
- no standing water in the saucer
3. Keep the surface active
- light re-moistening as needed
- especially important for fabric pots
- prevents "dead" top layers
Mulch as a must, not an option
Mulch in Living Soil is not an addition, but a central tool.
It performs several functions simultaneously:
- reduces evaporation at the surface
- stabilizes moisture
- protects microorganisms from drying out
- ensures more even water distribution
Without mulch, the surface of a fabric pot almost always dries out too quickly.
This leads to exactly the problem many try to avoid.
The most common mistake: wrong understanding of "not drying out"
Many growers react to the statement "do not let dry out" by watering too frequently or too much.
This leads to:
- continuously wet lower zones
- lack of oxygen
- sluggish root growth
The correct approach is:
- no complete drying out of the system
- but also no permanent saturation
The substrate is allowed to dry out slightly –
it just must not biologically collapse.
The role of pot size
Pot size is often underestimated, but it is crucial for stability.
Small pots:
- dry out faster
- react more strongly to watering errors
- have less buffer
Large pots:
- more stable moisture distribution
- more even microbial activity
- better error tolerance
Especially in Living Soil:
The larger the volume, the more stable the system.
For a clear classification, it is worth taking a look at our article on pot sizes, as this lays the foundation for any watering strategy.
Pros and Cons at a Glance
Fabric Pots
Advantages:
- very good oxygen supply
- active root development
- well suited for biological systems
Disadvantages:
- higher evaporation
- uneven drying (edge vs. center)
- require active moisture management
Bottom Watering
Advantages:
- can specifically supply the lower area
- supports downward root development
- reduces mechanical stress on the surface
Disadvantages:
- no control over water distribution
- risk of waterlogging in the lower area
- does not adequately supply the upper microbe zone
Practical Classification
Tobi from CannaSelection summarizes it this way:
"Fabric pots work very well.
But only if you understand that you are no longer following a watering schedule, but managing a system."
And further:
"The problem is rarely too little water or too much water.
The problem is almost always the distribution."
Watering in Practice
How to actually water in Living Soil
Basic principle
In Living Soil, watering is not done according to a plan, but according to the state of the soil.
Nevertheless, guidance is needed.
Estimating water quantities correctly
As rough guidelines:
- per watering: approx. 10–15% of the pot volume
- Example:
- 10 L pot → 1–1.5 L water
- 20 L pot → 2–3 L water
Important:
- water slowly, not all at once
- work in stages (2–3 passes)
- Goal: even moistening, no flushing
Watering frequency
Typical range:
- every 2–4 days (depending on environment and pot size)
What's crucial is not the rhythm, but:
- surface slightly moist
- pot noticeably lighter, but not dry
- no continuously wet bottom area
How to recognize the right moment
Practical indicators:
- top 2–3 cm begin to dry out slightly
- pot weight significantly reduced
- plant still looks vital (don't react only when it's drooping)
Combination of top and bottom watering
Recommended distribution:
- 70–80% from above
- 20–30% from below (selectively applied)
Important here:
- no standing water in the saucer
- bottom watering only for short periods
- then bring air back into the lower area
Use mulch strategically
Mulch stabilizes the entire system.
Practice:
- cover the surface completely
- keep it slightly moist
- do not let it dry out
Effect:
- less evaporation
- more even water distribution
- more stable microbial activity
Substrate Structure - The Foundation for Everything
Many watering problems are actually substrate problems.
What matters:
- balanced ratio of:
- structure (e.g., perlite, wood fibers)
- water retention capacity (humus, compost)
- no compaction
- good capillary action
If the substrate doesn't "draw," bottom watering won't work properly either.
Typical Mistakes from Practice
- too much water at once
- continuously wet saucer
- dry surface without mulch
- pots too small for Living Soil
- rigid watering schedule without observation
Conclusion
Fabric pots are not complicated –
but they are also not as simple as often claimed.
In Living Soil, it's not the quantity of water that matters, but the balance:
- even moisture
- active surface
- no persistently wet bottom area
The combination of:
- top watering
- targeted bottom watering
- mulch
- appropriate pot size
leads to a stable system.
Everything else will sooner or later create imbalances in the soil.
